Short answer: A short guide to reading the grade printed on a lock so you can tell a genuinely strong deadbolt from one that only looks the part on the shelf.
A short guide to reading the grade printed on a lock so you can tell a genuinely strong deadbolt from one that only looks the part on the shelf.
ANSI/BHMA (the American National Standards Institute and the Builders Hardware Manufacturers Association) test locks for durability and forced-entry resistance, then sort them into Grade 1 at the top, Grade 2 in the middle, and Grade 3 at entry level. Those numbers come from repeated cycle tests, torque tests on the knob or lever, and hammer strikes to the bolt. A Grade 1 deadbolt survives more operating cycles and heavier blows before it fails than a Grade 3 unit. Most exterior residential doors are well served by a solid Grade 2 deadbolt; Grade 1 is the commercial-tier standard and is worth the step up on a door that faces the street, an alley, or a hidden side yard. The grade is usually listed on the packaging or the spec sheet rather than stamped on the lock face, so it's worth asking to see it before you buy.
A grade tells you how a lock endures a beating, but it doesn't capture how it resists the quieter attacks a locksmith knows about. Look separately for a hardened steel insert or free-spinning collar that resists drilling, a keyway designed to frustrate bump keys and picking, and a bolt that throws at least a full inch into the frame. Two locks can carry the same Grade 2 label while one has an anti-drill cylinder and the other has nothing of the sort. When you compare options, weigh the cylinder's pick and drill resistance alongside the grade instead of treating the grade as the entire story.
The strongest cylinder made is only as good as the door and frame around it. A Grade 1 deadbolt mounted in a hollow-core door or a thin softwood jamb will still lose to a determined shoulder. Before spending on a top-tier lock, confirm the door is solid, the frame is sound, and the strike plate is anchored with long screws that reach the stud. If you're not sure what grade your current locks carry, or whether your door can even support an upgrade, a locksmith can inspect the setup and tell you honestly whether a new cylinder or a bit of frame repair would do more for your security.
ANSI/BHMA (the American National Standards Institute and the Builders Hardware Manufacturers Association) test locks for durability and forced-entry resistance, then sort them into Grade 1 at the top, Grade 2 in the middle, and Grade 3 at entry level. Those numbers come from repeated cycle tests, torque tests on the knob or lever, and hammer strikes to the bolt. A Grade 1 deadbolt survives more operating cycles and heavier blows before it fails than a Grade 3 unit. Most exterior residential doors are well served by a solid Grade 2 deadbolt; Grade 1 is the commercial-tier standard and is worth the step up on a door that faces the street, an alley, or a hidden side yard. The grade is usually listed on the packaging or the spec sheet rather than stamped on the lock face, so it's worth asking to see it before you buy.
A grade tells you how a lock endures a beating, but it doesn't capture how it resists the quieter attacks a locksmith knows about. Look separately for a hardened steel insert or free-spinning collar that resists drilling, a keyway designed to frustrate bump keys and picking, and a bolt that throws at least a full inch into the frame. Two locks can carry the same Grade 2 label while one has an anti-drill cylinder and the other has nothing of the sort. When you compare options, weigh the cylinder's pick and drill resistance alongside the grade instead of treating the grade as the entire story.
The strongest cylinder made is only as good as the door and frame around it. A Grade 1 deadbolt mounted in a hollow-core door or a thin softwood jamb will still lose to a determined shoulder. Before spending on a top-tier lock, confirm the door is solid, the frame is sound, and the strike plate is anchored with long screws that reach the stud. If you're not sure what grade your current locks carry, or whether your door can even support an upgrade, a locksmith can inspect the setup and tell you honestly whether a new cylinder or a bit of frame repair would do more for your security.
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